Clamp and drill the remaining bolt holes, and bolt the brackets together. Then clamp a very straight board to the saw table above where the bracket is and use this to align the bracket parallel to the table.
Then drill all the holes you will need to bolt to the bracket under the table, but only drill one hole on the bracket under the table and bolt the brackets together. Drill some holes that will be used to screw to the extension table. This piece must be bolted on parallel to the table. I then bolted on a similar piece to extend back to be used to mount the extension table.But anything that can be bolted under the table and extend down would work. I actually recycled some brackets that were designed to mount computer equipment in a rack that was wider than what the equipment was designed for. I used these to bolt some aluminum angle brackets under the table. There are three bolt holes under each side of the table. Since I wasn't going to be lifting the saw I decided to remove these and use the threaded bolt holes to mount the table extension. After analyzing the saw, I found that there was a piece of metal bolted under the table on each side of the saw table to make it more comfortable to lift the saw by the table.The front and back rack and pinion system, which keeps the fence absolutely parallel to the blade, requires a space for the rear fence connector to travel. One of the really great features of this saw also creates a problem for extending the table. I always feel safer with the wood base between my hand and the saw blade.Ī small saw is practical for a small shop but I found that the table was a little too short, so I decided to extend the back. Also for smaller pieces of material I find that the design of the handle allows me to easily apply pressure both down and towards the fence. I find it very handy when I am cutting a long board, that once I get near the end, to just grab the handle and finish the cut using the push handle to push past the blade.
I just drilled and taped the fence for the bolts to hold it on.
To make it always readily available, I mounted a strip of plastic on the back of my fence using standoffs to create a slot for the handle to drop into. If you make it too deep it will catch on the table if you are cutting thin material. The hook I cut at the back edge only needs to be big enough to bite into the back of the material. I made the actual pushing piece from Plexiglas to allow me to better see what was going on. And I also wanted my hand to be protected, so I built a wide base with a handle to allow me to apply pressure to hold the material safely. In designing my push handle I wanted it to be able to hold the material down and against the fence. I wanted a push handle that would always be handy whenever I needed it.
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